C&O Canal Adventures Walking, riding, and cleaning up the C&O Canal

Hancock Visitor Center

The Hancock Visitor Center is located in the old Bowles House, and since the center’s relocation from the ugly block building on the main drag,  it has been hailed as the “new” visitor center.  However, the fact is that there is nothing new about it.  The house was built in the 1780s and is much older than the canal itself.  In fact, in the 1830s the residents of the house sold goods to the boat captain and aided in their passage through nearby Lock 52 and the Tonoloway Creek Aqueduct.

Lush & Green

The view from the footbridge over the lock reveals a rare scene.  Notice that the grass  is lush, green, and mowed, and the canal isn’t filled with trees of all shapes and sizes.  In fact, this is one of the better-manicured stretches of the western end of the park, which is fitting because the visitor center is nothing short of a showcase.

When you gotta go, you gotta go!

However, beauty is often in the eye of the beholder, and Candee and I both love this picture.  I’m not sure about the age of the outhouse, and I wasn’t about to get close enough to find out.  Perhaps the NPS uses this as a site for Port-a-John Appreciation 101.  I know I won’t be complaining about the facilities at the hiker/biker campsites for a long time!

In all, the Hancock Visitor Center is a great place to stop on the C&O Canal.  It‘s open from Memorial Day until late October and has a wide variety of books and souvenirs for park visitors of all ages.  Likewise, it sits between the towpath and the nearby Western Maryland Rail Trail, which allows bikers to enjoy both the C&O and its sister trail.  I’ve always said that Hancock is a great place to ride a bike, and a trip to the Bowles House only makes it better.

View of the Lock

You 'Gotta' Try It!

I’ve always said that the food selection in Hancock is broad enough to keep most hikers and bikers happy, and now you can add another restaurant to the repertoire.  On March 1st, the Potomac River Grill opened near the Rt. 522 bridge over the river (former home of the long defunct Bridge Restaurant), so today we decided to to give it a try.

On past through rides we’ve stayed at the America’s Best Value Inn, which is across the road from the restaurant, and people touring both the C&O Canal and Western Maryland Rail Trail now have the option of heading to their lodgings before taking a short walk to a really good meal.

As the word grill implies, the options include beef brisket, pulled pork, chicken, ribs, burgers, and a number of side and dessert items.  Platters are $10 and include either a pile of pork or brisket or a half-chicken, plus fries, a side, and a piece of cornbread.  The sandwiches (pork or beef) and burger are $7 each, and ribs range from $11 (half-rack) to $21 (full-rack).

I'm up for a Blake Burger at an outside table next time!

The list of sides includes potato salad, fries, macaroni and cheese, baked beans, lima beans, and applesauce.  Dessert items range from $2 to $4 dollars and include pineapple upside-down cake, key lime pie, brownies, and fruit cobbler.  What we had today (chicken and pork platters) was very good, and I wouldn’t hesitate to come back and explore the rest of the menu.

For now, the hours are 11 am to 9 pm, and I’m sure there are plenty of bikers out there wondering about breakfast.  Our waitress told us that will be coming soon, and there should be plenty of good offerings.  Anyone traveling the C&O who is interested should head past the bike shop on Pennsylvania Avenue to the main drag, take a left, and continue to the video store.  There is a dirt road beyond the video store’s parking lot that leads to the back of the restaurant.  Bon appetite!

Built in 1876 by the B&O Railroad Company--If you look carefully, you can see a train in the distance.

All Aboard! Point of Rocks!

Point of Rocks is located near mile marker 48 on the C&O Canal.  This area was hotly disputed between the C&O and Baltimore and Ohio Railroad because of its narrow passage, and the completion of the canal to Harper’s Ferry was delayed until 1833 because of these legal issues.

The town is also the site of an ornate railroad station built by the B&O in 1876.  The station is a hot photo op for railroad buffs–in fact, there were two other people taking pictures of the building while we were there.

View of the US Route 15 Bridge from the boat ramp

Another important fixture nearby is the US Route 15 bridge.  It’s the first bridge across the river past the American Legion Bridge near Cabin John, and the only crossing in between is the Jubal Early at White’s Ferry.  It’s no wonder that the traffic is so heavy: that’s a long way between crossings!

Naturally, we went ripping through the area on our two previous through rides.  Last June, I swallowed a large bug while riding and spent my time gagging and drinking large amounts of water while speeding past the Point of Rocks parking lot.  I had no clue that there was a boat ramp and beautiful view of the river nearby.  I love biking.  In fact it’s more of a passion than hiking or sightseeing, but I can’t reiterate enough that I’ve missed plenty of beautiful scenery on my Trek 7200.  Guess what else I missed?

NPS Sign....Point of Rocks

The town also has a convenience store, pizza shop, and deli.  No doubt, a person biking 60+ miles in a day needs plenty of protein, and there are much better ways to get it than swallowing large insects!  Let’s review: pepperoni pizza or a moth…that’s a no brainer!  Plus, anybody needing a snack has a long way to…guess where…White’s Ferry.

A Coffee House with a Twist! This old church built in 1910 was transformed into a trendy little coffee house that serves a wonderful variety of coffee, tea, pastries, desserts, and meals.

101 Years Old!

More often than not, our trips down the C&O Canal end in mad rush.  We really do have to learn to stop and smell the roses–or in this case coffee.

Beans in the Belfry is the type of relaxed-atmosphere coffee house that every town needs, and Canal buffs are fortunate that it’s a mere .2 miles from the towpath at Brunswick, MD.  The building dates back to 1910, and was originally a church.  The stained glass windows are still intact and allow just enough light to create the perfect mellow atmosphere.

Today we stopped in for the Jazz Brunch (Sundays from 11am-2pm) and enjoyed live music while dining on soup, pastries, and Eggs Benedict.  The regular weekly menu also has a number of high-carb items that will help the long-distance biker or hiker get down the trail–and let’s not forget the caffeine.  The coffee was top-notch!

View from the balcony...

Stained Glass Windows in the Stairwell

In all, Beans in the Belfry is a very soothing and eclectic place to get off of the towpath for refueling.

As we all know, 184.5 miles of travel means that places to refresh, regroup, and rejuvenate are often few and far between.  Oh, yeah, it’s also a great place to simply hang out for an hour or two when hiking and biking aren’t on the agenda.  Bring along your favorite book, newspaper, or your laptop (free wi-fi)– pick a comfy spot and enjoy!

Sunday Jazz Brunch at Beans in the Belfry with John Ware & Walter Johns

It's worth the walk! (or ride!)

If you’re biking the entire length of the C&O Canal towpath, then you’re sure to be hungry when you pass through the Cushwa Basin area of Williamsport.  If you’re in the mood for Italian food, you’ll find delicious pizza (and a loaded menu) less than 4/10 of a mile away from the C&O Canal Path visitor’s parking lot.  True, you have to come up a slight hill, but the effort will be well worth it!

Come out of the parking, head up the hill (West Potomac Street), and turn right onto Conococheague Street. Tony’s Pizza Time Cafe will be on the left-hand side on the next corner.  While perusing their menu, make sure to look for Crazy Tony’s Pizza-topped with bacon cheese fries, ranch dressing, with cheddar & mozzarella cheese.