C&O Canal Adventures | Walking, riding, and cleaning up the C&O Canal

27 Mar

Cedar Run Falls, Shenandoah National Park

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Cedar Run Falls

Access to Cedar Run Falls is at mile 45.6 on Skyline Drive, directly opposite of the trail to Hawksbill Summit. The falls are reached by following Cedar Run Trail 1.7 miles down the mountain–and I do mean down! The first warning was a pair of exhausted hikers struggling up the trail as we descended. They assured us that seeing the falls was worth the trip, but it did get a little bit confusing: the descent is so steep that the entire upper end of the stream is one waterfall after another.

Could this be it?

Fortunately, I have a hiking book downloaded to my Kindle (cellphone app, in this case), and I generally know what’s coming before we get there. I knew we had to cross Cedar Run to view the waterfall from the other side, and generally stream crossings in spring can be problematic. However, the stream was running pretty low for late March, and that proved to be good and bad. The crossing was pretty easy, but the waterfall was less spectacular than it could have been.

All of this raises a big question: was the difficult descent and the 1250′ of elevation gain on the way out a little bit too much bother for a five minute view of a low-running stream rolling down a long cascade? No, not really. I would like to make this journey when the water is running a little bit higher, but I was pretty satisfied with the fruits of my labor.

The long view of Cedar Run Falls

13 Mar

Cat Rock (Cunningham Falls State Park)

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The Cat Rock Trail on Rote 77, across from Catoctin Mountain Park headquarters

The Cat Rock Trail on Route 77, across from Catoctin Mountain Park headquarters

It was kind of ironic that the first opportunity to take advantage of Daylight Savings Time came on a rainy day. At times, it poured pretty hard, and the temperature hit a less-than-balmy 48 degrees as we reached Catoctin Mountain Park’s visitor center. After talking to the ranger and consulting a map, the most interesting possibility for a quick walk in the woods seemed to be an out-and-back to the Cat Rock Overlook in nearby Cunningham Falls State Park.

Yellow, green, and gray!

The roughly 1.2 mile trip to the top began along Route 77–directly across from Catoctin Mountain’s headquarters (not the visitor center). As we headed there, we could see that we had a fairly significant climb ahead of us, but nothing comparable to the ascents we faced in the past in Shenandoah National Park or on the AT. Nevertheless, Candee and I are still shaking off the winter blues, and as a result of our recent “easy” hikes, we’re inclined (pun intended) to refer to any molehill as a mountain.

This is a really big tree–or should I say was a really big tree? It’s always disappointing to see such a magnificent tree lying on its side.

From the beginning, there really aren’t too many surprises. The trail immediately heads uphill, and a couple of flat spots are the only reprieves. However, 570′ of elevation gain isn’t that intimidating, even through mud and over slippery rocks.

The Old Misery Trail went off to the right a bit over halfway up. We continued to Cat Rock, so I’m not sure how miserable this trail really is.

We did pass a few other hikers along the way, and one told us that Cat Rock was worth our trip up the mountain. I agree! The large pile of boulders at the top is a fine piece of Mother Nature’s artistry. The only disappointment is that the well-worn soles of my ancient New Balance Country Walkers didn’t allow me to make it to the top of the highest rock. The rain, the moss, and other things were just a bit too much of an obstacle.

Getting closer!

There are a few longer hikes that include Cat Rock as part of the scenery, and any of those would be great on a pleasant day. This part of Maryland is one of our favorite hiking destinations. The mountains are challenging, but they’re not too much of a back breaker for those who are trying to get back into shape.

Closer…

But not quite there!

29 Feb

Caledonia/Quarry Gap Circuit (Caledonia State Park and Michaux State Forest)

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Early in the day on the Ramble Trail

The Caledonia/Quarry Gap hike is a double loop connected by the Appalachian Trail in Caledonia State Park and Michaux State Forest. The journey begins innocently enough along the banks of Conococheague Creek in the parking area beyond Caledonia’s visitors center. As noise goes, the fast moving stream seems to be competing with the traffic on nearby US 30. The scenery along the Ramble Trail is good and the walking is easy, but the early stages of this jaunt were not indicative of what we would be getting ourselves into.

Conococheague Creek crossing

More Conococheague

At about the 1.2 mile mark, the flat terrain gives way to a half-mile climb up a steep ravine on the Three Valley Trail. The climb leads to a relatively easy stretch of the Appalachian Trail at the 1.9 mile mark, and 2.6 miles into the hike the AT joins the blue-blazed Locust Grove Trail, which you’ll follow approximately one mile before turning left onto the Hosack Run Trail.

Three Valley trailhead

Locust Grove/AT with a combination of blue and white blazes

Hosack Run Trail is roughly 1.2 miles in length, and the highlights are two stream crossings before heading uphill on a series of steep switchbacks. At the end of this half-mile ascent, nearly all of the uphill walking on this circuit is complete, and after topping out, the Hosack Run Trail meets the southbound AT (turn left), which covers the final 2.8 miles back to the parking area in Caledonia State Park.

This is a small pond a little over three miles into the hike. There were too many very dedicated mating frogs to count. The water was freezing cold!

I was just as surprised by this snake as I was the plethora of love-starved frogs!

As stated, the final stretch on the AT is mostly downhill, minus a few level spots and some slight uphill grades, and at the 5.5 mile mark the trail passes the Quarry Gap Shelter. We’ve seen a number of shelters on various trails, but this is probably the most inviting one to date. It’s a nice piece of work to be sure, as is a flight of natural stone steps a little ways down the trail. This section of the AT is monitored by Jim Stauch of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. We were fortunate enough to have a chat with him, and he jokingly reminded us that the rest of our walk would be downhill. He wasn’t lying!

Quarry Gap Shelter–the pride and joy of Jim Stauch, a very dedicated AT volunteer

The last mile or so into Caledonia is very steep, and I couldn’t help feeling sorry for the people heading up the mountain. Nevertheless, our own descent proved that we had done a considerable amount of climbing ourselves. We have done far more difficult hikes than this one, but we typically take it easier during the winter months. With that said, this walk is a great way to head into spring.

An amazing set of stone steps near Quarry Gap

The final stats were roughly eight miles of walking with 1250′ of cumulative elevation gain. This trek is considerably more difficult than Pole Steeple, Sunset Rocks, and Chimney Rocks–our other three hikes in and around Michaux State Forest. In spite of the lack of an overlook, this may be the most scenic of the four hikes as well. My final thought on this circuit is that the double loop with an AT “tether” is kind of hard to follow, so I would recommend a good local trail map and a game plan. Once you know where you’re going, enjoying this walk will be easy!

Through the rhododendron tunnel!

20 Feb

Old Forge/Chimney Rocks (Michaux State Forest)

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The white AT blaze showed the way

The church at Old Forge. It’s covered in creosote or something similar. It’s a unique, but good looking building.

The Old Forge/Chimney Rocks hike we embarked upon today has a few different possible starting points. Originally, we intended to start at the Old Forge Picnic Area across from Camp Penn in Michaux State Forest; however, because of our lack of familiarity with the location of the Appalachian Trail, we opted to park where the AT crosses Rattlesnake Run Road. Due to the lingering snow in the woods, there was little danger of encountering a rattlesnake. Instead, slippery footing and 8″ deep snow on the “cold” side of the mountain caused sporadic problems during what was otherwise a great day of hiking.

A bit of humor in the privy at Tumbling Run Shelters

There isn’t any electricity in the outhouse, but because of the skylight you can choose between solar and lunar light

From our tiny parking area, we headed north on the AT, and in .4 miles we met up with Old Forge Road and crossed Tumbling Run before heading back into the woods. In a few more tenths of a mile, we came to the Tumbling Run Shelters. These are relatively typical Adirondack-style structures, but they make up the best overnight facility that we’ve seen on the trail to date.

Overnighters can sleep in the snoring shelter…

or the non-snoring shelter! I would have to use the snoring shelter.

A quick tour of the shelters gave us a handful of laughs. There is a light switch in the privy that is marked “solar” and “lunar.” Of course there isn’t any electricity in this remote outhouse, but it is equipped with a skylight that allows sunlight and moonlight to aid the user when nature calls. The fun didn’t stop there; the two shelters are labelled as “snoring” and “non-snoring,” so campers should know their sleep-type before picking a resting place.

Heading toward Chimney Rocks

Our first look at Chimney Rocks from the back side

Beyond the shelter, it’s just over a mile to the Chimney Rocks Overlook, and the Appalachian Trail ascends approximately 900′ along the way. In a few spots it’s fairly steep, and the last of the snow and ice on the sunny side of the mountain made for an interesting climb. Near the top, the Chimney Rocks Trail crosses the AT, and a .1 mile detour leads to a great view that includes the Waynesboro Reservoir. This set of rocks is easy to climb–unlike Sunset Rocks–and the view can be enjoyed by nearly everybody, even those of us with a fear of heights.

Looking toward the…ummm…northeast (I think) from Chimney Rocks

The Waynesboro Reservoir is in the distance

Beyond the rocks, our travel plans included another mile on the AT before reaching a pipeline. From here, we walked uphill roughly 100 yards and took a left onto a forest service road (Chimney Rocks Road) that started us back down the mountain. The road meets up with the other end of Chimney Rocks Trail, but we continued straight until our blue-blazed route took a left at a Y intersection and dropped sharply toward Tumbling Run. At about the five-mile mark, the trail hugs the bank of the stream all of the way back to the shelters, and from there we reconnected with the stretch of the AT that we started on in the morning. A half-mile later, we were back at our starting point.

Heading back down the mountain on the snow-covered fire road

Heading back down the mountain on the snow-covered forest service road

This is the other end of the Chimney Rocks Trail. Stay straight on the forest service road!

The final stats were a moderate 6.2 miles, with a combined elevation gain of 1100′, but this short trek has a little bit of everything: an overlook, a stream, a country road, and even a bit of human ingenuity. There really wasn’t anything not to like. So far, this is our best hiking experience in Michaux State Forest, and I would highly recommend it.

Tumbling Run. If you look closely, you can see a plank bridge that crosses the stream near a PATC cabin that’s available to rent for the night

7 Feb

Ball’s Bluff Battlefield (Leesburg, Va.)

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Sign at the park’s entrance

The history of the Battle of Ball’s Bluff (October 21, 1861) is neatly laid out on the many interpretive signs in Ball’s Bluff Battlefield Regional Park. The gist of the story is that a Union patrol provided misinformation to General Charles P. Stone, which led to an embarrassing Union defeat.

The really cool insignia on the cemetery gate!

A look into the tiny cemetery. All but one stone is marked as unknown.

The retreat was also a disaster, in that not enough boats were provided to to get the troops back across the Potomac, and one or more allegedly capsized as the Federals tried to escape the bloodbath (1,000 Union casualties, 300 for the CSA). On the Maryland side, folklore has it that the C&O Canal is haunted by Union troops who died during the escape. This section of the towpath is known as Haunted House Bend, and for years after the battle canallers reported seeing the ghosts of soldiers who died during the battle.

The layout of the battle

I first read about the Ball’s Bluff hike in the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club’s Hiker’s Guide to Civil War Trails in the Mid-Atlantic Region. With snow still lingering in the local mountains, we opted for the ‘burbs again today. While reading about this hike, I noticed that the map in the book is pretty confusing. Upon our arrival, we found that the map at the kiosk is even worse! Don’t worry about it…

Walking through the crusty remnants of what was a 30+” snow on the Orange Trail

Exploring the twisted maze of trails is actually very enjoyable. A small, walled cemetery is the virtual center point of the park, and every trail and turn seemed to lead us back to within sight of it. Throughout the walk, we flipped a figurative coin at every junction and enjoyed reading the signs along the way. In the past, most of our hikes have been pretty regimented–one wrong turn could easily ruin the day–so being whimsical was kind of refreshing.

A colorful green blaze contrasts with the muddy Potomac River and the ugly gray sky

The Virginia channel of the Potomac and Harrison Island

Today, the battlefield was replete with friendly locals walking their dogs, and we made a few new friends–both two-legged and four. However, the highlight was walking along the Potomac in sight of Harrison Island. The bluff itself isn’t very imposing; it’s approximately 600 yards long and about 110′ high at its peak, and at the downstream end the green-blazed trail turns right and heads back toward the (ta-dum!) cemetery.

At Ball’s Bluff Overlook, with Harrison Island in the distance

Downstream end of Ball’s Bluff

We live about an hour away from Ball’s Bluff, and the hike was definitely worth the trip. There’s a bit of a history buff in most of us, and taking a walk through scenery we’d only viewed from the Maryland side was enlightening. The grass really is just as green in Virginia! Simply put, this was the latest in a growing number of great hikes.